The vehicle stopped. All of us were attentively staring at the scene outside the window.
On the other side of the highway, a lone dog was prancing towards us from the opposite direction. The dog stopped for a moment, looked at us, and passed our vehicle like we couldn't offer any help.
In the dog's mouth, there was a dead lamb - probably no more than a couple of weeks old.
Our driver Tenzin and our guide got off the vehicle, trying to figure out what was going on.
But the dog didn't stop. It even speeded up its already heavy footsteps due to the burden in its mouth. It was obvious that the dog had already made the choice of continuing to reach the destination it had in its mind. It walked away from us like a stubborn pilgrim.
............
The Yarlung Tsangpo River and Mountains just outside of Lhasa
It was another morning on the Tibetan plateau and another rainy day, but we were going to another city.
Modern Infrastructure in Tibet
The vendors had already begun their morning rush. Three-wheeled trucks and mini vans were all over the place near Barkhor Street - It would be another busy day when hundreds of new tourists arrive.
Meanwhile, some of the old tourists, like us, would be gone.
Towering Peaks near Lhasa
Soon we found ourselves on the highway en route to Shigatse, Tibet Autonomous Region's second largest city. The Shigatse Region was also home to Mt. Qomolangma, which in the West known as Mt. Everest. Because our guide wanted to reach Shigatse early to get our travel permits at the local public security bureau, yet some of our group mates really wanted to visit the Tashi Lhunpo Monastery, we decided to take the shortcut to Shigatse and visit all interesting places we were supposed to see on our way back to Lhasa. In that way, we could get into Shigatse in the early afternoon before the Public Security Bureau closed for the day.
En Route To Shigatse
As our vehicle traveled along the banks of Yarlung Tsangpo River, the upstream of the Brahmaputra River, we passed through several small villages and monasteries. Yarlung Tsangpo was considered the mother river for all Tibetans. There were many water burial sites along the mighty river where remains of dead Tibetans would be left near the bank for the fish to consume. Tibet is a place where permafrost covers most of its land. Thus regular burial became literally impossible even today. We outsiders must understand and respect these practices that had been passed down for hundreds of years.
A Monastery by the Yarlung Tsangpo
A Water Burial Site
Then a dog appeared in the middle of the road. In its mouth was a lamb that was no more than a couple of weeks old. The driver Tenzin stopped the vehicle and we all watched that scene until the dog disappeared.
A Village On A Cliff
A Village On A Cliff
Does it know where to go? Will it bring the dead lamb to the shepherd? Will it face the very similar fate as the lamb in the extreme harsh condition of the Tibetan Plateau before it could even reach the destination?Could it survive the cruel judgment of the mother nature?
Mountains of Tibet
There are places, unfortunately, become dumping ground of household and tourist garbage.
We continued our journey to Shigatse. Hours later we passed by a region where I saw giant water tunnels built from one side to the other side of the mountain. Our guide told us that those pipes were built by the government to provide hydro electricity. The only problem was that the water in those pipe came from one of the holiest lakes in Tibet - The Yamdrok Lake. The water level in Yamdrok Lake had decreased since the dam was put in use, which had affected the environment of nearby areas.
Hydrolic Dams built by the government on the opposite side of Yamdrok Lake
A Public Facility Building in Tibet
As we followed the great Yarlung Tsangpo, we were closer and closer to Shigatse. When our vehicle stopped for a break, I saw a number written on a white, stoney pole right by the highway. Cheryl and Val asked our guide about the meaning of the number, which he told us that it was the distance between People's Square in Shanghai and the spot where we were standing.
The Yarlung Tsangpo River
The Yarlung Tsangpo River
And that was almost 5,000 kilometers!
4835 on the sign indicated that the post was 4835 kilometers away from Shanghai
Mountains of Tibet
A River Valley
We arrived Shigatse as planned. After getting our permits for Mount Everest and the region beyond, we were on our way to the Tashi Lhunpo Monastery.
The Shigatse Dzong, or "Little Potala" of Shigatse
Shigatse was located in an area known as Tsang. The Chinese name of Tibet was derived from there. Despite most of the people in Tsang also belonged to the Gelugpa sect of Tibetan Buddhism, for hundreds of years people of Tsang saw the Panchen Lama as their spiritual leader. Originally built by the very first Dalai Lama in the 15th century, Tashi Lhunpo Monastery is where the successive Panchen Lamas resided and ruled the region of Tsang.
Tashi Lhunpo Monastery
Before stepping out of our vehicle, the tour guide warned us:
"You should avoid talking about politics or sensitive topics while in the monastery. Many of the monks could speak foreign languages. They might report us to the authorities if we are not careful!"
In 1989, 10th Panchen Lama, whom many regarded as the greatest Panchen Lama of all time passed away. Subsequently the 14th Dalai Lama in India and the central government in Beijing appointed their respective 11th Panchen Lamas. The one appointed by the Dalai Lama was reported to be under the government custody and no one ever heard of him ever since. The 11th Panchen Lama everyone sees in Tibet today is the one appointed by the government. This, however, was not a secret among many Tibetans. Because of being unable to display the pictures of the Dalai Lama and unwilling to recognize the government's choice of the 11th Panchen Lama, Tibetans across the plateau chose to display the picture of the late 10th Panchen Lama instead.
A Residential Area inside Tashi Lhunpo Monastery
The Monastery
The 11th Panchen Lama, however, doesn't normally live at the Tashi Lhunpo monastery. Like many other high profile Tibetan monks in China, he is currently residing in Beijing (like some say, a hostage of some sort). However, whenever the Panchen Lama was at the monastery, the place was closed to tourists. Luckily His Holiness left the Tashi Lhunpo 3 days ago, which made our visit possible.
While walking down the alleys,some of our group mates suddenly stopped. Cheryl said: "look, there is a monk up there looking at us!"
On a terrace right above us, a young monk, maybe 12 or 13 years of age was staring at us. He stood there like an eagle and scanned the surroundings with his sharp eyes. Cheryl took out her phone and began to take pictures of him. Now he had all of his attentions on Cheryl - the eagle was ready to strike.
Giant Stupas Inside the Monastery
"Look!" Cheryl began to laugh. " He's smiling at me!"
All of sudden everyone literally took out their cameras and began to take photos of that young monk. After posing for everybody, theyoung monk went back to the room behind the terrace.
The Spinning Prayer Wheel
Later we visited the chapels.One thing interesting about the Tashi Lhunpo monastery was that people were allowed to take pictures inside the chapels, as long as they were willing to pay quite a hefty price (Equivalent of $10.00 per chapel. Professional cameras $200.00 per chapel). Years ago when Shaolin Temple became a public trading company on the stock exchange, the Chinese heavily criticized the temple's administration and claimed that they were a bunch of "money hungry businessmen in monk robes". Was the Tashi Lhunpo under the current Panchen Lama heading the same way?
Buildings Inside the Monastery
Chapels Inside the Monastery
In front of the chapel housing the tomb stupa of the 10th Panchen Lama, I was amazed by the giant monument commemorating the man who led the reconstruction of thousands of temples all across Tibet and the rebuild of the Buddhist faith after the devastating Cultural Revolution - a period when practicing Buddhism was not permitted. Even the 10th Panchen Lama himself was forced to become an ordinary man and worked in a factory in Beijing. During this period he got married and fathered a daughter. After the Cultural Revolution, he voluntarily gave up his secular life and returned to his duty as the 10th Panchen Lama. In Tibetan culture, the size of a monk's tomb stupa was determined by the accomplishment of that monk. That's why tomb stupa of the great 10th Panchen Lama was among one of the largest in Tibet.
Entrance to one of the chapels. The black curtain absorbs both the heat and blocks out the rain
Visitors exiting the tomb stupa chapel of the 10th Panchen Lama
Despite the fact that the monastery would close at 5:00 pm. We stayed all the way till 6:30 just for one thing: seeing the monks going to evening class. As the time approaches, monks in their formal yellow robes and yellow hats (the Gelugpa is also known as the "yellow hat sect" because of this). Some of the younger monks arrived early to prepare the scrolls and would be used during the evening class.
At one point the monks began to chant
rhythmically together. When other monks arrived, they joined their fellows’
choir. As the sun was falling, the number of monks eventually outnumbered the
tourists who were watching them with curiosity. Standing in lines, suddenly all
of the monks rushed into the chapel, left behind only the echo of their
chanting and unaccountable number of shoes they had to remove before entering the
chapel.
After all the monks entered, we followed
in. On the higher alter sat the higher ranking monks who would be in charge of
that day’s evening class. At the ground level were most of the junior monks,
who were still chanting and waiting for the senior monks to call to order. Upon
hearing that the class would begin very soon, we exited the chapel.
Tourists in front of a chapel
The Statue of a Guardian
Earlier that day Aurelie told our guide
that she would like the pendant she bought to be blessed by a lama, which was a tradition practiced by the majority of Tibetans. Because some of the higher ranking monks at the evening class were lamas, our guide asked Aurelie for her pendant and ran back into the chapel. Moments later, he came out, and brought Aurelie her pendant, now blessed by a lama.
Tashi Lhunpo Moanstery
On the way back to our hotel, our guide
brought up a theory that the 10th Panchen Lama might be murdered by
the government. Days following the Panchen Lama’s death, people claimed that the
color of the lip changed into deep purple.......
I began to wonder why everything in Tibet
sounded so mysterious.
The sun rises every day from the east,
nurtures every single life in the world.
The sun rose above the horizon of the high
plateau. Its ray shone right upon the giant peaks in the background.
Deep down in the valley, where darkness still prevailed, He made another move of his heavy footsteps. The steps were heavy, like his two feet were dragged by an enormous yet invisible chain ball. However, the burden, he knew, was hanging inside of his heart. Only he could feel the stretching pain.
He looked at the carving on the side of the
path. He knew the writing since he was very little. As for how little he was,
he couldn’t remember; but the callouses on his hands might be able to tell. The
carving read:
In 1989, 10th Panchen Lama, whom many regarded as the greatest Panchen Lama of all time passed away. Subsequently the 14th Dalai Lama in India and the central government in Beijing appointed their respective 11th Panchen Lamas. The one appointed by the Dalai Lama was reported to be under the government custody and no one ever heard of him ever since. The 11th Panchen Lama everyone sees in Tibet today is the one appointed by the government. This, however, was not a secret among many Tibetans. Because of being unable to display the pictures of the Dalai Lama and unwilling to recognize the government's choice of the 11th Panchen Lama, Tibetans across the plateau chose to display the picture of the late 10th Panchen Lama instead.
While walking down the alleys, some of our group mates suddenly stopped. Cheryl said: "look, there is a monk up there looking at us!"
At one point the monks began to chant
rhythmically together. When other monks arrived, they joined their fellows’
choir. As the sun was falling, the number of monks eventually outnumbered the
tourists who were watching them with curiosity. Standing in lines, suddenly all
of the monks rushed into the chapel, left behind only the echo of their
chanting and unaccountable number of shoes they had to remove before entering the
chapel.
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