Sarajevo: Aftermath and Today

"It screamed downward, splitting air and sky without effort. A target expanded in size, brought into focus by time and velocity. There was a moment before impact that was the last instant of things as they were. Then the visible world exploded."

-Steven Galloway, The Cellist of Sarajevo

An archive photo of Mr. Smailovic playing the cello in the ruins of Sarajevo's historic City Hall during the Siege of Sarajevo (photo credit: Wikipedia)

I first heard about the war in Bosnia and the Siege of Sarajevo from a novel called The Cellist of Sarajevo. It was written by Steven Galloway, an author who once taught creative writing at University of British Columbia: my alma mater. The story drew inspiration from a real event in which a cellist named Vedran Smailovic played Albinoni's Adagio in G Minor in the ruins of the National Library (Sarajevo's pseudo Ottoman style City Hall) for 22 days straight. He dedicated the whole act to 22 ordinary citizens who were killed by a mortar while waiting in line for food. In the same story, Galloway also featured Arrow: the legendary Serb girl sniper who helped Muslim Bosniaks through assassinating Serb snipers.  

The historic Sarajevo City Hall/ National Library, where Vedran Smailovic played Adagio in G Minor for 22 days honoring 22 innocent civilians died while waiting in line for food. The building today is fully repaired

The book itself, like Steven Galloway himself (who had an affair with one of his own students), became controversial. One of the biggest criticizers of the book happened to be no other than Mr. Smailovic himself, who claimed several inaccuracies about the portrayal of himself and the fact Galloway never got permissions from him to write about him. If we are talking about the readability of the novel alone, I think it is an excellent and extremely interesting book. After all, it got me to know a historic event happened not that long ago. You don't hear people, especially the western media really talk about it anymore. We live in an age which Muslims are feared and prejudiced against. In our age, being both a Muslim and a victim do not even make sense in terms of media coverage - not even worthy of fake news. Whenever we hear about terrorist attacks in western countries through 24 hours non-stop coverage, we fear about our own safety as well- we fear that we might be the next target. Meanwhile, 200 innocent people die in places like Syria and Yemen every day. Sorry? Who? Never heard of it. It's not gonna happen to us anyways. Why should I care?

Emperor's Mosque in Sarajevo today

Sarajevo in early morning sun, decorated by the tombstones of Bosnian War victims

White marble columns are a traditional type of tombstones used by Muslim Bosniaks

To many, the Bosnian War ended when Bono and the U2 held a concert in Sarajevo in 1997. To the media, Bosnian War as a topic became irrelevant when Poet in Exile Mr. Remove Kebab and Commander Mladic got arrested and charged. To survivors of the war, the nightmare still lives inside their hearts. To the nation of Bosnia and Herzegovina, the hot war is gone, but the cold war continues on. 

There is a line you can find in many places in Sarajevo: Sarajevo, Olympic City 1984, Surrounded City 1994. In 1984, Sarajevo hosted the XIV Winter Olympic Games. The Olympic stadium was where the opening and closing ceremony were hosted, as well as where U2 held their monumental concert in 1997.

Abandoned bobsleigh track of Sarajevo Winter Olympics 1984

Even today, Bosnia remains officially a divided country : an ethnic Serb majority state called Republika Srpska, and the confederation of Muslim Bosniaks and Croats like we have already discussed in Sarajevo: Besieged City. The Presidency of Bosnia and Herzegovina today is consisted of three figures, rather than one (I bet many Democrats in America are jealous of Bosnia's system nowadays): a Bosniak, a Croat, and a Serb. 

After the war, the Winter Olympics Bobsleigh site was abandoned. According to many Sarajevans, "it's very expensive to restore it. Plus we ordinary people don't do this kind sports anyways. It belonged to the 1984 Winter Olympics, so let it be something 1984."

Abandoned 1984 Winter Olympics Bobsleigh Facility

Abandoned 1984 Winter Olympics Bobsleigh Facility

Abandoned 1984 Winter Olympics Bobsleigh Facility

Abandoned 1984 Winter Olympics Bobsleigh Facility

Exactly how well is this system? According to a Sarajevan sitting next to my table at a Bosnian coffee house, his answer was:

"Ever wonder why there's no progress in Bosnia? Because whatever new ideas we have regarding how to make our country a better place for everyone, one leader will agree, one will disagree, the third one just won't care. It's always a stalemate."

Sarajevo from above: the new city

Sarajevo from above: Austro-Hungarian Sarajevo and the Olympic Stadium

Sarajevo from above: Ottoman Sarajevo

Sarajevo's Historic City Hall, where the story of Cellist of Sarajevo took place

Modern skyscraper in Sarajevo

This stalemate, however, isn't like the chess game you see Sarajevans play in the parks. At least in a chess game, you can start it all over. For the stalemate Bosnia is facing today, you just simply can't. Let's put aside whether it's workable at the governmental level, it doesn't seem to be workable at your everyday citizen level, of all sides. The wound of war is still fresh, and starting over means peeling off the scar. Can people endure the pain? Absolutely. Is it easy? It's gonna be hellishly difficult.

Residents of Sarajevo playing chess in a city park

Sebilij and tourists

It was hard to imagine that this bustling city was once a scary place to be

If the impact of Bosnian War still lives today in Bosnia and Herzegovina, did we, as ourselves claimed, really learn anything from it? 

I don't think so. Innocent, powerless people are still suffering from war caused by selfish ambitions of politicians. If students of today truly want to learn about two world wars and the Bosnian War (and why peace is important), throw away their textbooks. Just send them to Syria and Yemen, and they will understand it all.

Sarajevo's WWII eternal fire

Sarajevans haven't forgot that once upon a time, people regardless of their ethnicities fought together as one nation against Nazi Germany. That nation was called Yugoslavia

Sarajevo's historic Orthodox Cathedral

Leaving Sarajevo wasn't as easy as how we got in. The city's trolley buses weren't running due to maintenance. Therefore my father, who was traveling with me on the same trip and I caught a taxi to the airport. On my way to the airport, as we were passing through Zmaja od Bosne (Dragon of Bosnia Street), formerly known as the "Sniper Alley", I asked our taxi driver about the "Legend of Arrow" I learned from Steven Galloway's book. Instead of  giving me the answer that answered my question, the taxi driver, however, gave me the answer I was hoping to hear. He told me about his own experience as a fighter during the Siege of Sarajevo. He explained to me in details how the UN set up firearms embargo on the both sides, which turned out to be a huge favor for the Serbs as they did not need any extra firearms in order fight the war - they got the support of the Yugoslav People's Army, which was the sixth largest standing army in the world at the time. In order to obtain firearms to fight back, he and some of his comrades bribed a Serb officer so they could buy guns and necessary supplies. 

From this hill, you can see the panoramic view of Sarajevo. During the Siege of Sarajevo, this very same spot was one of the places where mortars were launched to kill innocent civilians in the city below

Nights were once dreadful in Sarajevo. Today, it's all peaceful, no more afraid chidlren

Cafes in Sarajevo at night

"Is that your father?" The driver nodded towards the rear mirror, where a reflection of my father taking a nap in the back seat could be seen. 

"You should take care of him in the future. Is your mother alive as well?"

Not sure what he meant, I told him yes.

"Then you need to take care both of your parents when they get old, especially your mother! Treat your mother even better! You are so lucky that both of your parents are still alive and you still have the opportunity to take care both of them...."

The statue of Vladimir Peric, also known as "Walter". He was the leader of Sarajevo's resistance movement during World War Two. Since then he became a symbol of Sarajevo and a symbol of Sarajevo's unity

A public art dedicated to the children of Sarajevo who died during the Bosnian War

Then I somewhat figured out why he asked me that question, and told me that it's important to take care of my parents when they get old, although he didn't clearly say it.

Eventually my father and I made it to the airport on time. Before we left, the taxi driver told me once again that I should take care of my parents. He described his message to me as "some advices from a friend."

In the end, we shook hands, not just for appreciation, but more as friends.

(P.S. If this series has a song for closing credits, it has to be this one:)

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                                                                    Chapter 5 

"We are looking for Obran Smiljevic." Two officers in SS uniform demanded as they entered the office at the train station where the partisan-suspect was working.

"I'm Obran." One of the three men in the office answered.

One of the officers walked straight towards him, and slapped Obran's face several times. "You bastard, come with us!"

"Hold on!" One of the men behind Obran yelled. "We are the Police, lieutenant. We have received the order that this man must stay in this very office with us!"

"No, he's coming with us." The lieutenant insisted.

"I think there must be some misunderstanding here. We have received a strict order that Obran Smiljevic must stay in this office under our surveillance!"

"What?" The lieutenant was angered by the lack of cooperation from the two policemen. "How dare you questioning the SS? You guys weren't doing your jobs properly, that's why thugs like Smiljevic were able to disguise as a railway worker to help out the partisans. If the police could uncover his identity earlier, none of these would happen!"

"Sir. We have a strict order to follow. We have no choice. We can't release Smiljevic to you". The other man behind Obran replied. "You can verify with Lieutenant Bischoff."

As the policeman was about to pick up the phone, the lieutenant stopped him.

"Hold on. I need to verify your identities, gentlemen. There must be a reason why you refuse to release Smiljevic. Show me your IDs! How do I know if you aren't working for the partisan? How do I know if you aren't here to protect him? How do I know if you are really making a phone call to Lieutenant Bischoff, or maybe you are trying to call your accomplices for help!?"

The two policemen took out their IDs, and showed them to the lieutenant with full of discontent. 

In the distance, the lieutenant realized that a freight train was slowing approaching the station. He realized that the whole confrontation with the two policemen would soon be over. 

"Hand your IDs to me! I need a closer inspection!" The lieutenant demanded.

As the lieutenant was closely examining the IDs, the train conductor rang the horn to signal the men in the office that the train was about to enter the station. Suddenly, the lieutenant pushed Obran to the side, and in the deafening, loud horn sound, the officer behind the lieutenant shot the two policemen with the rifle on his hands. 

The lieutenant threw the police IDs on his hands to the ground, beside the dead bodies of the IDs' owners. The three of them sneaked out of the office and hopped onto one of the train's many compartments without having the driver noticed. 

The driver rang the horn again, signaling the unattended office and the two bodies lying inside it that the train was about to leave.