Ottoman Sarajevo: Surreal In Her Crown

Sarajevo is the capital of Bosnia and Herzegovina. The modern city was founded in the 15th century by the Ottoman Empire shortly after the fall of Constantinople and the Eastern Roman Empire (also known as the Byzantine Empire). At one time, it was the second largest Ottoman city on the European continent after Constantinople. In Turkish, the term "sarayı" means "palace" - which was a common term referring to Ottoman government buildings. This term later evolved into "Sarajevo" - which became the city's name. Years of Ottoman rule did not only give the city its name, but also influenced the local architecture and people's lifestyles. 

Sarajevo's Ottoman style City Hall Building was actually built during the Austro-Hungarian period honoring the city's Ottoman history

The heart of Sarajevo

Cafes are a very important part of life in Sarajevo

Much of Sarajevo's Ottoman legacy can be found in the Baščaršija neighbourhood - the city's unofficial city center.  Baščaršija is home to a large number of cafes, mosques, and artisan shops. The name Baščaršija itself is a reference to the term "Bazaar", which refers to markets throughout the Middle East. The center of this unofficial center is a wooden fountain called Sebilij. Just like the City Hall Building located a few blocks away, Sebilij was built under the rule of the Austro-Hungarian Empire to honor the city's Ottoman history and influence. Sebilij since became a symbol of Sarajevo and its replicas could be found in places from Belgrade all the way to the United States.

Sebilij - the enduring  symbol of Sarajevo

Sebilij at night

A cafe serving gelati in Baščaršija

Inside the Bazaar of Sarajevo

Exterior of the Bazaar

Around Sebilij, you'll find cafes that serve Bosnian coffee - a local variation of the world famous Turkish coffee. Unlike Turkish coffee, which is commonly served in cups, Bosnian coffee is served inside the utensil that cooked it - Dzezva. In between Sebilij and the City Hall Building, you will find the historic Coppersmith Street - where many artisans make and sell dzezva and other types of copperware.  Besides Bosnian coffee, smoking hookah is also very popular especially after the sunset. I even mistakenly sat down at a cafe trying to order some food but what I got was a hookah set instead! (after I explained to the cafe owner, he realized that it was a misunderstanding. Since they only served coffee and hookah there, I had to move on so I could eat my dinner)

A cafe beside Sebilij

Bosnian coffee served in Dzezva

Coppersmith street

Worshipers inside the courtyard of Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque

Inside the courtyard of Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque one late evening

Following the call to prayer, you will likely end up finding yourself in the courtyard of Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque. This historic mosque was built in the 16th century and today is one of the most important mosques in the entire Balkans. When you enter its courtyard, you will find yourself in the middle of a crowd full of worshipers. While it seemed that visitors couldn't  walk into the main building of the mosque - unless you are a Muslim during the designated opening time everyday, simply being there inside the courtyard with other worshipers was an experience itself. The mosque was a place of harmony and where people sought peace. When you look around, I assure you that you would find warm smiles that brought people's hearts together, instead of cold, judgmental eyes which led to misunderstandings and prejudices.

Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque and its clock tower

Worshipers inside the mosque

The courtyard of Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque

Worshipers entering the Mosque during prayer time

Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque at night

The Mosque and the clocktower

The Mosque's Museum building

The fountain inside Gazi Husrev-beg Mosque. Fountains in mosques are used by worshipers to clean themselves before prayers

The scenery along eastern part of the Miljacka River is probably a reminder to people what Sarajevo would have looked like back in the days. You will also find the Emperor's Mosque - the oldest and largest mosque in Sarajevo and Bosnia built in 1457.  The official rule of Ottoman Empire in modern day Bosnia and Herzegovina ended in the late 19th century.  Following the exit of one great power, another great power stepped in and took control of the region: the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Despite being a mostly Catholic state, the Austro-Hungarian Empire continued to honour the Ottoman heritage of Sarajevo by maintaining and constructing new pseudo- Ottoman style architecture throughout the city, including Sebilij - the great symbol of the city itself.

Sarajevo along the Miljacka River

Miljacka River

Emperor's Mosque

Emperor's Mosque

An Ottoman style pavilion inside a public park built during the Austro-Hungarian era

In the next post, I will explain more on Sarajevo's time under Austro-Hungarian rule. Despite lasting less than 50 years, as compared to 400 years of Ottoman Sarajevo, what happened during this period had a significant impact on the city, and even on the entire world! Stay tuned and we'll dig more into the beautiful city of Sarajevo. Thanks for reading!

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

                                 WALTER DEFENDS SARAJEVO

                                                                     Chapter One

As the morning sun rose, Sarajevo woke up from the deep sleep. The sound of church bells rang across the lush green valley where the city was situated.  From the yellow fortress, a defense complex constructed to prevent Sarajevo from falling into the hands of the enemies on the high ground, one could see almost every single street of Sarajevo, and at that very moment every single street was in the eyes and mind of a man in uniform.

"What a beautiful city, Bischoff!" exclaimed SS Colonel von Dietrich.

"Indeed. But it's not a quiet one" replied the officer standing beside von Dietrich.

"Well, it's about time we make it quiet." von Dietrich turned around from the viewpoint where he was carefully examining all the details of the city in the valley below with a pair of Zeiss binoculars. 

The two walked along the edge of the fortress.  Along the way, cannons and anti- air craft guns were already set up just in case the worst scenario ever happened: enemy air raids. Germans took extreme pride in their very own Luftwaffe. However, as Germany was retreating, nobody could count on the once fearsome Luftwaffe to take care of enemy bombers.  The top priority of Luftwaffe at that moment was to defend Germany, not some occupied areas somewhere in the Balkans.

"A Bosnian poet once wrote this." said von Dietrich, "May God bless those who hunt, and also bless those who are hunted."  

"Those who are hunted? I don't understand.." Bischoff replied, "Of course people, like myself, like to hunt others down, but certainly not the other way around."

Von Dietrich sneered, and then saluted to the guard he and Bischoff just passed by. "What about this Walter person you are supposed to hunt? How long have you been hunting down Walter?"

"One year", answered Bischoff with full of discontent. "Actually, more than a year now, Colonel."

"Any information you have on him, Bischoff?"

"No, not at all."

"Nothing?  Are you serious?"

"We have tried our very best, Sir.  We have arrested and interrogated over one hundred people now regarding this Walter figure. However, we got absolutely nothing. Nobody knew his true identity, no one! I swear to God, this Walter guy is like a ghost! I even began to doubt whether he exists or not......." 

Von Dietrich looked deeply into Sarajevo from the edge of the Yellow Fortress. After a long pause, he turned to Bischoff:

"I don't believe in ghosts." Von Dietrich coldly stared at the frustrated face of Bischoff. Then he pointed his finger towards the city down below. "He is right there, somewhere down there, in one of these streets."